Barranco de Guayadeque

On the eastern side of the island remains a small cave village called Guayadeque (barranco is just a valley). There are caves all over the island, predominantly in the rugged mountain terrain, but very few that are inhabited. In Agaete, we saw many used as storage rooms, doghouses, or chicken coops . We also stumbled upon one that resembled a vacated small community with one enormous oven made in the same architectural fashion. Some of these caves date back thousands of years to the guanches, who are presumed to be the original inhabitants of the Canary islands.


Happy, at the cave restaurant

We had been looking forward to these in particular as they were just an hour and a half walk from Aguimes. The Spaniards, as usual, were aghast that we would walk (why walk when you can take a car!). We, as usual, enjoy the process of seeing the island and are stubborn about the Spanish obsession with convenience. They can't imagine taking two buses to get somewhere, whereas we love the bus system because you can basically get anywhere. Needless to say, the walk was delightful, full of olive groves, a trickling creek (a rarity on this barren island where they build houses in the riverbeds), and a continual serenade of noisy pooches. What is it with barking dogs in the Canaries? They are everywhere! And they seem to relish in joining the roosters to wake the island in the morning.



One of our favorites (note skins drying above, and oven outside)

We stumbled upon the town in no time. It's tiny, consisting of 25-30 homes, two restaurants, and a small church. The homes consist of a small entrance, usually built out from the cliffs and painted. To our inspection, it appeared that most had electricity and running water. The church was incredible, and felt as old as the island itself. It was simple, a small rectangular room with a humble alter and a worn stoup (fancy word for holy water bowl). It was most notable that most everything with the exception of the pews was carved out of the earth.

We strolled around until the waning daylight nudged us on our way back to Aguimes. What a day to remember.