Thursday, July 17, 2008

Fes

Ah, Fes. Although most tourists head to Marrakech, it is said that the true heart of Morroco is in Fes. Fes is the oldest of the four imperial cities of Morocco - being here was like looking back in history.

View from a terrace...the Moroccans love their satellite television

In some distinct ways Morocco clings to its past, and the tanneries in Fes were a prime example. Donkeys carry sheep, goat, cow and camel skins through the narrow medina streets to the tanneries.

The office, note big washing machine bottom left

Here, they are washed and thrown into dying pits which are nearly a thousand years old (though some have had minor renovations with the addition of ceramic tile). All skins initially go into a white mixture of pigeon droppings (ammonium sulfate) and limestone.


Hard work. Very hard work.

After being preserved in this mixture for a few weeks, they move on to the dye pits. We visited a tannery where all the dyes were natural. Poppy (red), henna (orange), saffron (yellow), indigo (blue), cedarwood (brown) and coal (black). The organization of the tanneries follows traditional guild principles, where people are born into the trade and most resources are shared.

Left over wool drying in the sun

The medina in Fes is absolutely phenomenal. It is thought to be the largest pedestrian-only area in the world. Many of the buildings are precariously erect, with cantilevers supporting some sections and wooden frames spanning the streets, keeping the tightly-packed structures from falling into each other. In a 2km by 1 ½ km area there are 9400 streets, 350 mosques and you had better believe you will get lost. But there is an inherent beauty in losing oneself entirely we came to realize, and when really needed Matt pulled out his compass for some assistance. The compass, although a little nerdy, was awesome.

Choices, choices, choices

The fountains of Fes are also impressive. Water is a highly valued commodity in the desert, and it was some architectural feat to get over 60 fountains scattered throughout the medina. They are ornately mosaiced, with brass fixtures, and are as beautiful as they are functional. The elaborate fountains are surrounded by intricately carved white stucco (lace-like) and a equally detailed carved wooden canopy. These fountains are the basic communal well for many in the medina. As for bathing? They head to a hammam, or a local bath.
Men playing cards in the afternoon shade

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